Tuner Info Part 2 ECU Flash Toyota Landcruiser 200 series, VDJ200R V8 4.5 litre Commonrail 1VD-FTV Diesel EGR Blank/Delete/Reduce...

Fair warning given:

The following is only recommended reading for the motor performance tuning enthusiasts among my readers...It may not make much sense otherwise!




As per my lastest email interaction with Y3 ECU Tuning of Y3Tuned. Alpine Lee, with whom I've been corresponding had kindly agreed to give me more 'inside info' as to what was done in the ecu flash tune. Truck being a 2008 Toyota Landcruiser 200 series with the twin-turbo 1VD-FTV V8 common rail diesel engine.


Here goes....

Hi Albert , 

Kindly refer to the explanation ,apologize for the delay .

1) Pilot Injection Table

- What are the X(0-11),Y(0-16) and Z(4000+) units in the map? I understand the pilot injection to be necessary to reduce knocking and allow a smoother combustion burn post pilot, especially at lower rpm.

A: The X is Rail pressure while the  Y is the relative load of the engine ,  while Z is the duration as same as main injection , the scale located in other address of the firmware , as the scale wise I dint define it cause it’s a little time consuming to point to other address for the scale .

- What is your rationale in modifying the parameters?

- To shorten or lengthen?

- To adjust for a longer post pilot injection?

I had prolong the Pilot for high load to in-pair with the increased main injection, else the noise or smoke may be occurred in higher load, in the other hand it will slightly contribute additional power as well.

Btw, additional pilot inj in low load will create more engine noise,

 Eg. You will found Piggy back on vehicle has some pinging sound during idle .

  

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2) EGR Air Request Map

- What are the units along the 3-axis? This one is fairly straight forward to understand.

- The air request is the deviation of air flow reading for EGR kickin state , just set it to 0 , the EGR detection by Air flow will be disabled.

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3) 4 x EGR duty map

- A short description will suffice thanks.

 -  those Map are the EGR valve duty cycle open loop map including the correction value according to ATM Pressure  , Engine coolant temp,  intake air temp.

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4) Searching of ECU Map via 2D mode

- A short description will suffice thanks.

 - The ECU firmware is a bunch of binary / hex code , we need to look for the 2D pattern for the hex value to determine where is the injector duration , turbo boost ,boost limiter , torque limiter etc

 eg : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9zBF7dRYMU

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5) EGR related error code been switched off...

- I have used an old PC disassembler "Sourcer" in the late 80s to disassemble installer programs to 8086 'assembly language' to enable one to modify the installation to proceed bypassing the password requirements, the reassemble and run it. Your hex dump, to understand it, you have a disassembler? Haha just remembering the old hacking days!

- All error code in Toyota firmware can be found easily by searching the Error code in Hexa mode, the error block is leading by the error code and follow by the error switch , error state , error de-bouncing value etc.. Set it to 0 will permanently switched off  the particular error code 

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There you have it!...Some insider info on an ecu flash to remove EGR and improve performance of the very capable 2008 Landcruiser.

All thanks goes to Alpine Lee who has been generous enough to divulge information of this nature to us customers, like many other good tuners also. I personally believe his generosity will only serve to improve knowledge and understanding of us enthusiasts more....translates to asking for the right tune and freedom from misunderstandings. This can only be a growing market! Cheers all!

Macro shots of Citizen 1000m AutoZilla...Year 2016

Interested in closeup pics of an autozilla with the zilla bracelet from Suppa?

Still swooning over my own Citizen 1000m SuppaAutoZilla after three months of ownership...

Relax and view...

The anticlockwise only bezel gets spun around unintentionally (hitting/rubbing against something) a lot when watch is worn for land duty on a daily basis. As long as real divers find it functional.

Handsome...to behold...

0 or 60-minute Bezel mark...

Caliber 8203B...."8203-" mentioned

Slight vibration in picture...handheld

Weekday, day-of-month...wheels

Good knurling on screw-lock crown and springed stainless steel cylinder bearing and sliding pin...bezel lock on top

Bezel lock lever pin opened...looks like a minute 'E'-type circlip retaining a spring on the pin.

Bezel lock pin.

Top view of bezel lock pin

Bezel lock lever viewed from bottom up

Hmmm...HRV...wonder if it'll vent when I climb up to a high enough mountain top after having been at sea-level?

Post millennium show of progress...no more stuck on backing plate...

Slight gap but good color match...where the Suppa titanium adapter lugs fit.

Courtesy of SteVRal watchmaking...titanium lug adapter using spring bars and locating legs for the bracelet curved solid ends retention...custom made Zilla bracelet...see www.suppaparts.com

Rounded edge solid bracelet end piece...

Single fold clasp pin...stainless steel

Foldover links

Clasp diver's extension (RHS) and the clasp lock that receives the pin(LHS)...

Clasp buckle...

Thanks for viewing...

Part 2 Citizen Promaster Super Tough Titanium Robert Swan BJ8010-53E PMX56-2571 Year 2016...Superlativeness of this watch!

You've read the last article?...Some repeats here but who can help it?...

The Duratect Titanium Super Tough Robert Swan Citizen was released in 1999 as PMX56-2571 in the Promaster range of Japan only models. The rest of the world had the BJ8010-53E model number with slight cosmetic differences, uniquely in the depth rating designation "W.R. 20 bar" Japan-only and "W.R. 200" rest-of-world.

This is one rare pre-millennium superlative watch. Released in 1999 with a limited batch of five hundred units, I say again, rare superlative. I extrapolated my arguments somewhere that there could be more than 500 units simply because of the two differing model numbers but I could be wrong and then again possibly right, who knows? There are many good...super good...and exorbitantly expensive so watches out there. However almost all of them do not have a superlative title. This one has one and maybe two.

This is a Citizen Promaster Titanium Super Tough Eco-drive watch. The superlativeness of this watch, however, did not derive from the subjective 'super tough' attribute of its name but in its anti-magnetism aspect, an objectively measurable quantity. Rated to be resistant to 16,000 gauss (go Google some basic magnetism in Physics) and I'm just, like many of you out there, going to take it at face value of what Citizen had proudly done in their laboratories.

ANTIMAG 16000...Oh! missing the case back stuck on back plate! Good riddance.

16,000 gauss superlativeness...the often mentioned Rolex Milgauss is rated ten times weaker in this respect!

Now to put more fuel into the fire as to its name "Super tough". How tough is it? I have mentioned the Duratect titanium surface wear and tear toughness in my last posting prior to this one. The other tough attribute is its anti-shock features. It being any Eco-drive, ermm, quartz will have less need for anti-shock features...nevertheless, the lesser shock the better...


In anti-shock terms apparently quite well endowed as shown below....

From this illustrative diagram alone, one can see the excessive enough use of black shock absorbent seal material in protecting the inner watch cases while seated into the outermost watch case, all in titanium and Duratect treated.

Looking closely, the watch actually consists of three watch cases, with the innermost case securing the Eco-drive movement by seals all round its outer circumference, bottom seat and before an inner bezel ring securing down the dial. This forms the first layer of shock resistance.

The middle watch case(a monobloc) has a thick bottom seal that partially covers the outer stepped portion of the circumference of the case.  It is secured into the outermost case using four sealed screws. Picture above missing the seals in the securing screws! This forms the second layer of shock resistance.

Here the seals are shown. Middle case secured via four screws with seals.

Top bezel secure down crystal to the middle watch case through a thick black seal as well as pinning down an inner bezel ring that press against another inner bezel ring before the dial and the innermost watch case against the middle watch case, all with seals in between, of course.

This forms a floating middle and innermost case for the watch. The engineering, IMO, allows very slight movements to be absorbed and tolerated by the seals and clearances in the securing screws as well as the crown. A double shock absorbent design seems to be in place, phew!

As if that wasn't enough Citizen did another shocking treat for us customers....

This was adding another layer of anti-shock treatment...this time in isolating shocks from the all titanium bracelet! IMO, another unsung milestone achievement for this watch. How effective all these seals treatment towards shock absorbance are, I believe, lies in the clearances of the holes where the screw bolts through to give it leeway for the minutest movement short of metal impacts. I would call this feature the third layer of shock resistance.

Fully functional all titanium, surface hardened by Duratect, tri-fold clasp with divers extension built-in into the bracelet clasp. A rare find!

Angularly curved handsomeness...triple (as explained) shock resistance...anti-magnetic...tough Duratect Ti skin...500 rare...IMO, anti-gravity due to its weightlessness...love this watch!

Don't trade this for any other watch!...

So in conclusion, this watch is not only the most anti-magnetic watch in the world, it is also, IMO, the most shock resistant watch in the world, coming in with a triple shock absorbance design! A dual champion in the world of superlatives...that's pretty rare. I can think of another two superlative titles but enough for now. So the next time you are thinking of a trade-in for an Autozilla, think again. :-)

Citizen Promaster Super Tough Titanium Robert Swan BJ8010-53E PMX56-2571 Year 2016

For a comprehensive information site I recommend here:

http://www.dodde.eu/Site/Welcome.html

done very well by a strong enthusiast of this watch. In this article, I post mostly pictures and some little details of my very own watch.

One of five hundred made (possibly more...but not much more) is this very well known (to those few hundred fortunate individuals...) but rare Citizen watch:

My surviving example in this year of 2016, after having brought it through some careless use, like while fixing my car, only because it was super tough. I had thoroughly enjoyed the watch since purchasing it in a watch shop in Chadstone Shopping Centre, Melbourne, Australia in the early post-Millennium years. Don't remember the year.

It grabbed me as a super tough...true to its name...with metal injection moulded Duratect titanium which basically meant that the moulded titanium was further surface hardened by one or several of Citizen's proprietary processes all labelled with the 'Duratect' heading.

Duratect titanium, taking its toll after several years (a good decade plus...) of my very own abuse! I'll just say it took my bashing very well indeed. The Duratect surface hardening technology (perhaps it was the earlier type) still shows microscopic dings and dangs all round the bracelet and the watch case as shown above. These shots were captured with a Nikon 105mm macro lens. The edges suffered the most as compared the flatter regions. No surprises here.

These photos above were captured a couple of years earlier. The ones below are recent in 2016.

My watch had suffered two breakdowns to date. The first breakdown was a good 10 years ago approximately. It had the same symptoms, watch stopped completely and would not respond to any amount of sunlight charging. Back then I had it figured out to be a bad battery, yes despite being an Eco-drive (Non perpetual calendar) powered by sunlight, a battery of sort is needed to keep charge.

I had it sent in to Malaysia's Citizen service centre in Kuala Lumpur costing me RM400 back then. It came back working fine till recently. The same non-charging symptoms had arisen again. I'm guessing its to do with the battery technology.


This time in 2016, Malaysia's Citizen Service Centre rejected my watch saying that they do not have the parts anymore. So I tried Singapore and wouldn't you know it, Singapore had no problems ordering parts for my watch. They had the seals and recommended that I change the crown also to which I gave a resounding yes.

Kudos to the Singapore Citizen Watch Service Centre...You're the best!

Part numbers for seals and crown of my watch. B872 is the calibre of the watch.

Technician who took apart my watch on the spot recommended a change of the crown to ensure seals are fresh to 20 atm (200m) water depth.

Singapore's Citizen Service Centre...

Singapore's Citizen Service Centre...

A rare picture from the Net. A watch case within a watch case. This watch boasts the highest anti-magnetic rating amongst watches to the tune of 16,000 gauss. How strong is 16,000 gauss? Simplified, here we are into the territory of big electromagnets of the kind used in lifting steel structures or check out this youtube video of a 1.5 Tesla (15,000 gauss) MRI machine:

Youtube Dangers of MRI

The culprit for my non-performing watch state...battery technology from the pre-millennium era.

Earlier adjusted bracelet...I prefer to centralise my watch case and clasp on my left wrist a bit more...so a re-adjustment by myself was done. 

Added an extra link on one side while removing one from the other to balance it.

Simple push in with a blunt tool to remove and install links...You can see this is a tri-fold clasp with a diver's extension. All titanium.

I still have my original bits of the bracelet left from brand new. Bracelets are adjusted to the current configuration I'm wearing now in 2016.

Rubber/Silicone (Your guess good as mine) cushioning had gone a bit out of shape but still doing its job. No replacement parts available for it though. The inner watch case back being a monobloc like a Seiko 1000m Marinemaster, actually had a stuck on piece of stamped (with raised lettering and Citizen symbol) alloy or stainless steel piece that had dropped off at some stage of my watch's earlier life. If it was meant to drop off, I'll agreeably think that it should. Cost-saving way of Citizen to make this earlier generation of titanium watch I think. To Duratect treat or manufacture a case with titanium having raised letterings or symbols may have been prohibitive at the price point of this watch in those years, perhaps.

Picture from the Net of the original stuck on alloy(or stainless steel) piece portion of the watch back case.

Brand new watch crown. It may seem off-centred...several online pictures show the same phenomenon on other watches. The wedging lock action and positioning of the floating (in rubber /silicone) inner watch case may have slight movable offsets.

Loosened crown shows the V-shaped wedge of the seating surface as the crown is tightened.

That's all for the time being folks...