Thursday, 19 February 2015

Theory: Toyota Landcruiser 200 series, VDJ200R V8 4.5 litre Commonrail 1VD-FTV Diesel EGR Blank/Delete/Reduce.

Why I did what I did or the theory behind it.

Mine is a story of failed-forum-read-theory mixed with courage-through-impulse-driven-mods plus blessings-in-hiding situation. On hindsight, I would have data-logged live readings using the Toyota Intelligent Tester II(A borrowed unit with limited time) before believing any of these forum materials.


Fully blanked the EGR feed pipe:

1) There was a Mitsubishi Pajero forum and others as well telling of how drilling the throttle plate a 12mm dia. hole allows the MAP sensor(fitted behind throttle...i.e. on the intake valves side) to be fed very slight positive boost pressure from the VNT turbo at idling, thereby fooling the ecu into thinking that EGR is feeding(thereby neutralising) the vacuum conditions of partially closed throttle.
Some took this on to be applicable to the Toyota VDJ200R (Without having tried it themselves).
This was on the premise, I thought, that EGR wasn't going to be related to MAF readings. So on the 1VD-FTV twin throttle, I estimated that two 9mm holes was somewhat in the ballpark figure given the engine capacity differences. I still wanted the throttle-smooth-kill-engine function.
The VDJ200R (07MY) threw CELs after about 30 minutes on the road. Reset CEL.
Engine kill was still smooth.

2) I plugged in the Toyota Intelligent Tester II and saw that my MAP was reading 99 kPa vs atmospheric of 100kPa. Very slight vacuum. Perhaps moving the MAP sensor to before the throttles would solve the problem. Drilled the intercooler and fitted the M4x0.8 push-in air-hose fitting as well as routing the feed to the MAP. Toyota Intelligent Tester II confirmed that the MAP was reading 100kPa at idle and would show boost with the slightest touch of the throttle. Of course, any boost at idle would have bled through the drilled throttles to the humongous 4.5 litre vacuum pump behind.
The VDJ200R(07MY) threw CELs after about half hour on the road. Reset CEL.
BTW the car was super responsive off the line and one could hear the VNTs come on a lot sooner. I wouldn't call it surging as it didn't have the wavy note but rather a healthy indication of propensity to boost!

3) Now my initial suspicions were all confirmed. EGR and MAF(Not just MAP...few others too) are related which means fully deleting the EGR is no monkey business! My appetite for chasing down the road this madness is just so much stronger having felt the new found torque with CELs blinking like crazy! The logical path was to bypass the MAF somewhat the amount equivalent to the factory EGR rate which with transient driving conditions is impossible to data-log and neither do I have the patience :-(. I did read that EGR is maximum at light cruising and goes off at full throttle conditions. Well, I was dreaming of programming an Arduino module to pick up readings from MAP, rpm, temp, EGR valve and MAF with a team of data-logging friends to cheat the factory ecu but alas, I'm just like a monkey on the floor with a cordless drill :-(!
Finally, I decided to compromise, and so I drilled to bypass air around the MAF with 2 sets of 12mm push-in fittings and air-hose(probably 10mm internal diameter) and wouldn't you know it? Car threw CELs in same time frame, almost. Oh hey, performance off the line and torque feel, although somewhat diminished, was still good! Better than the lethargic stock!

4) Since I've already compromised(lowered..) somewhat my MAF readings I was adamant there has to be a way I could survive all this! I would not bleed my MAF anymore lest I become like a slow loris off the line :-(! I still believe that the Toyota EGR valve is but a dumb device with no pressure sensing feedback other than the solitary MAP (There's another built-in on the car ecu for ambient pressure).

And so back to a partial blank at the EGR feed pipe:

1) Instead, I decided to try 6.5mm dia. hole vs the 10mm hole known to work. Voila! it worked! Through my earlier unsuccessful trials at a full blank, I had wrought the conditions to allow an even lower EGR rate than the advertised 10mm dia. hole blank without throwing any CELs!

2) With the two 9mm holes in the throttle plates, the EGR rate should, by right be lesser than before.

Drilled hole size in EGR pipe blank:

  • 10mm -> area = 79 sq.mm
  • 6.5mm -> area = 33 sq.mm
  • 5mm-> area = 20 sq.mm
  • 4mm -> area = 13 sq.mm


Next trial, I'll try 4mm dia hole in the EGR blank perhaps and that would be exciting, to say the least.

So here ends the story of my saga through the EGR dilemma of the Toyota VDJ200R(07MY).

Check back soon cause you want to know if the 4mm does work or not! If it does, the lower EGR rate would up my MAF readings a touch for that magical ever so slight an increase in response!

Sunday, 15 February 2015

Stage 2: Toyota Landcruiser 200 series, VDJ200R V8 4.5 litre Commonrail 1VD-FTV Diesel EGR Blank/Delete/Reduce

Been reading forums all over, especially the land down under and of today nobody has successfully fully blanked the Toyota 1VD-FTV V8 diesel's EGR completely without causing it to throw a CEL(Check Engine Light)! In this case the 4Lo, Engine, Traction off, Check VSC Warning+++ altogether.

Toyota 1VD-FTV engine. Only visible externals mods are the blue push-in air hoses.


Let me be very clear, my car was a 2008 registered sample and Toyota Intelligent Tester II tells me mine was "07 MY".

My first full blank with no other mods caused CELs as mentioned.
Investigating with the Toyota Intelligent Tester II shows a P0401 Exhaust EGR Flow Insufficient.

By the way, if you're a home mechanic without the Intelligent Tester II be assured you can reset the engine ecu by disconnecting the two batteries for 5 minutes to clear the CELs.

There's talk of an electronic/digital device to cheat the Toyota ecu/ecm but I've not heard further and am left without a clue as to who makes one.

The EGR blanks are usually made with a fully blanked gasket piece( eBay has plenty) installed to cover the EGR pipe feeding into the siamesed intake collector behind the two throttle bodies.

Toyota 1VD-FTV EGR feed pipe under the intercooler.




Of course eBay also sells the blanking plate with a 10mm hole drilled in the middle. This one apparently works without throwing any CEL and yet returns "performance" of the forum variety! I've not tried it but had mine made from a 34mm engine block "freeze" plug that I hammered squarely into one end(nearer the radiator!) of the EGR pipe. I did have to drill a 9mm hole.

Old 9mm hole 34mm block freeze plug pried from the EGR pipe to make way for a new one.



Apparently drilling any smaller diameter holes will throw CELs. Mine didn't at 9mm for the longest time I could remember...2 years maybe.


Anyway this post came about because I got curious for a smaller diameter hole blank!

Let me just give a list of things I've done:

1) Drilled a 9mm hole in each of the throttle plates of the dual throttle bodies.
Toyota 1VD-FTV Throttle body. There's two of these.



2) Plugged the factory MAP sensor feed hole of the siamesed intake collector behind the throttles bodies.

3) Fed the MAP sensor pressure from before the throttle by drilling and tapping the intercooler (do flush it with some petrol and air):

A 4mm push-in air-hose fitting with M4x0.8 threaded end fitted to intercooler. Factory oil-separator reused.


4) Reduce MAF(Mass airflow) readings by bypassing the airflow with 12mm push-in fittings and air hoses. Two in my instance.

12mm push-in air hoses from the airfilter box to...


To bypass the MAF!...


As to the theory of the above...later!

I then drilled the blanking plug hole to 6.5mm diameter...voila! no CEL!....so far! and performance was "definitely"(by the seat-of-the-pants feel) better than stock. Response was instantaneous and feel of the torque pull was "utterly" satisfying :O!

By the way, a 10mm hole gives an area of 25xPi = 79(sq.mm) and a 6.5mm hole gives an area of less than half at 33(sq.mm). That should somewhat reduce EGR rate effectively entering the intake system by a bit.

When I get tired of my new found performance :-) I will then try to reduce the diameter of the EGR bleed hole further...perhaps to 4mm diameter.

This post is Stage 2 with Stage 1 being the 9mm diameter hole I have tried before.

Enjoy and do check back just in case I've decided to try to reduce further the EGR rate!